Shoot Day - SS15 90s inspired look

So today was shoot day and Im happy to say everything went really well and Im really pleased with the looks that we shot! My model was fantastic she looked perfect and comfortable in the look that I had created. She was a very strong model and I will definitely be working with her again!

Here are some photos from todays shoot, It was really hard to pick just a few because out of the massive 350 shots I love almost every one. I have put the pictures on here that have not been photo shopped so that you can see the raw image of the hair and make up. Because of this the lighting in some of the photos is not so perfect. 

As you can see I have decided to go for the look with the brown tone out of the two looks that I tested in the previous post. I felt that this look was more iconic to the 90s period and when I saw my model I new straight away she would suit the more deeper look. 

So heres how the day went.....

I arrived at the make up studio a little earlier then the 10 the arranged plan so that I could set up and make sure that there was a space for me to create the look. I had timed myself and hour and a half for make up. And this worked out perfectly. My model arrived at 10 she was really great and easy to get along with. I bought fruit and drink for the shoot to keep us all on form! 

The Hair

To start the look I begun with the hair I faced a bit of a challenge because the hair was so short and in different lengths. This wasn't easy to work with however I think this really helped to achieve the 90s grunge feel I wanted. 
Because of the lengths it meant that the bantu knots had a twisty scruffy look. I really liked this because it was raw and edgy and matched the deep make up. I had to use really tiny rubber bands which I bought along with me incase I had this problem. I then twisted the hair into nots and tucked in the ends. I have looked at many bantu knots some which leave clips in, some which leave hair bands in and some that naturally tuck in. 
Personally I didn't actually want to have anything showing such as clips or hair bands so I tried my best to conceal the bands I used especially because they were black. In case the hair was too short I also took along some extensions. However I felt that they were not needed I stepped away from trying to create hair that looked immaculate and more something that had that just had a night out feel, something really relaxed and natural as this is reminiscent to 90s culture. 

There were many different lengths to the hair so I used a little Vita point leave in conditioner and a minimal amount of water spray to help me grasp the hair as well as possible. I did this to get some control over fly aways. 

The hair has really got a SS15 feel to it this look can be seen on many of the catwalks I discussed in my previous post such as Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs. The fact that I casted a model with short hair at the sides helped me to give the look a much more modern feel. Making it even more well suited to SS15. 

The Make up

The make up was my next step after the hair. I was aiming at creating a really earthy, raw and extremely clean make up. I started my cleansing and moisturising my model. First adjusting her chair to the right height as it had been a lot lower for the hair styling. 
I moisturised really well to help me achieve a nice glow to the skin. To add to this I also used Autograph Illuminating Primer to further brighten then skin before applying a base. This is a really great primer its an instantly radiating primer and makes such a lot of difference! 

Before 

For the foundation I used Mac Studio Fix fluid foundation in NC15. I mixed this with a little NC14 to lighten it up just a touch, I did not want to add any tan to the skin I wanted a perfect and natural finish. I applied this using a clean foundation brush to the T zone areas and then using a blending brush to buff into the skin. This for me was a great way of creating a natural finish rather then using a foundation brush I feel this creates a more heavier coverage look. Because this was a photo shoot and would be under the light I made sure to cover the neck and ears so they didn't stand out on camera! Because of the time of year my model had quite a bit of redness on the cheeks. I was able to cover this using the foundation and stippling on a little more to act as a concealer. I made this decision to help this look to remain natural rather then using a heavier concealer to cover. 

I did use a pink toned concealer from MAC just to conceal some of the dark circles underneath the eye area. These were minimal and did not need to much concealer. However the application really made a big difference in brightening up the make up. 

When I was finished I powdered gently only in some areas just so that I could keep the healthy glow to the make up. 

My Second step was to really lightly contour the skin. As I mentioned in my previous post I really just wanted to accentuate the natural features rather then create a really exaggerated contour. This is one of the things that is key to SS15 is a really light and clean make up. I felt  that if I was to create a heavy contour this would give the look a lot less relation to SS15 beauty. To contour I used Diego Dalla Palma Bronzer. I chose to use this because it gives a really nice warm glow to the contour. Also the shade of brown was a very similar tone to the brown I had used on the eyes and lips. The colour I used was Satin Cocoa. 

After Bronzing I highlighted the skin using Topshop Glow Highlighter the one I have is not currently on sale anymore however there is a very similar alternative always on sale that is very popular. Its a really creamy highlighter and gives a wonderful bright glow that seems to really catch the light. I applied the highlighter using my ring finger for greater control. I applied it to the nose, the apples of the cheek in a C shape and also to the cupids bow and below the bottom lip. Im really pleased with the effects of this product on camera. It really shows up and gives a beautiful natural glow. Using this type of creamy concealer also helped me to bring out that moisturised and healthy plump feel to the skin which I wanted as it contributes to the natural feel of the make up. This product really a key point to the look. 

The colour I used for the lips and eyes was the same as was created by me as practised in my testing. I used a brown shade from my La Maquillage foundation pallet. I then lightened the colour a little with a lighter shade adding moisturiser to loosen the product. I got the consistency to a kind of gel liner but a little looser warming it on the back of my hand. I applied it to they eyes using my ring finger blending it in. During the shoot I touched it up a few times as I was worried it may crease. Luckily it seemed to really cling to the skin well I think this is because I refrained from making the product too greasy.  

I then applied the same colour to the lips. I decided I did not want to line the lips. When I was testing and looking at 90s make up something that is iconic for the 90s brown lip look is to line them and then fill them in with a little lighter colour. I decided that If I was to go for this look it would not have enough of a SS15 feel. Looking at the SS15 lips the colours were subtle and never heavy for this reason I decided to fill in the natural lip shape almost like a lip stain. This was much more suitable for a SS15 look still keeping a natural, earthy and raw feel. I was really pleased that I stuck to this decision as the look was much more relevant to now. 

For this look I also wanted the eye brows to remain very subtle. I groomed them and filled them in only to perfect the shape slightly and fill in any gaps. To do this I used a angled brush and Ben Nye Eye Shadow in a combination of grey and brow to create a natural tone. I extended them ever so slightly this was just to get some balance and symmetry to the make up. I also used a clear eye brow gel to set them in place. 

The Lashes I actually left alone, This is because my model turned up with false lashes. I was a little apprehensive at first because I really wanted this to be a natural look. Most of the SS15 make up looks have little to none mascara. Luckily the lashes were not too prominent and false looking I think they compliment the make up nicely and look like mascara in most of the shots. Because they were false no product was allowed to be put on them. Luckily I did not intend to add anything to the make up.