Lace Face

Today we worked with creating lace effects on the skin using a number of materials such as wool, string and paint for example. 
Here is my experimentation although because of lack of time I was unable to finish lining the look that I created with wool. 

This look is all about the lace shapes and so to start we blocked out the eye brows using spirit gum and then camouflaging it so not to be seen, using D32 to bring back a natural tone and a layer of foundation to camouflage the brows.  

I then created a beautiful 3 dimensional base using two shades of contour. I used La Maquillage to create the base for the make up. I used a heavier coverage foundation as this is a more intense look. Also I felt this was most suitable as I was going to be working on the face with a number of materials and so a good coverage was important. 

To contour I also used the La Maquillage pallet to create two tones of brown that blend into each other seamlessly. This is a great way of creating a really beautiful 3 dimensional base that looks very well and naturally structured because of the blending of the two tones. 
Other then this the make up was relatively simple and was finished with a light coating of mascara and a very light set to the T zone to keep the natural dewey finish to the face. This is because the focus of this look is the lace patterning. 

To create the lace effect I decided to use the wool because it was a really vibrant and bright blue that suited my model well. 

I created shapes and patterns using Kryolan Aqua colour on the smallest brush that was available to me. I got the aqua colour to a creamy constancy for a neater application. 

When I was happy with my shapes I then used Liquid Latex to glue the wool onto the skin tracing of the shapes that I created, at this point an important health and safety point is to make sure that the liquid latex goes no where near the hair as it is almost impossible to get out of hair. 
Because of lack of time I was unable to trace over all the shapes and patterns I created with the wool however having a look at the picture below it gives you a good idea of the effectiveness of creating lace shapes on the skin. 

If this was to be done for a photo shoot I would use a red head or bald dolly head to create the shapes I wanted using liquid latex to stick on my pattern and let it dry. Once dry its can then be taken off as a head piece which saves a whole lot of time on a shoot environment which is an important factor. 

Creating a Sleek Bun

In todays workshop I created a sleek look bun. To smooth the hair I used hair spray and a little water as my models hair was very smooth and didn't need to much product. I used crepe hair to create a bun to wrap the pony tail around to achieve a fuller shaped bun. 

When wrapping around the bun I did a lot of back combing as this was the only way to be able to cover the crepe hair properly. I also used hair spray to help me smooth some of the shorter hairs from the centre down so there was no fly aways visible. My aim for this look was to get the hair on all aspects as smooth as possible. 

When I was finished I sprayed hair spray onto my pin tail comb and smoothed down the entire hair to perfect the final look. 

Creating a Bow with hair!

In todays hair work shop we made a quick fix hair bow starting from a a small piece of card. This is a great way to add shape and form to a hair style with really limited resources and very little time! 

To begin using a cereal box I cut out the shape of a bow and stapling it in the middle to create a 3 dimensional shape of a bow. Its important that the bow shape is 3 dimensional and not a flat piece of card so that the hair piece has volume and a depth shape. Its also important to make sure the staples are in securely for health and safety and also to give the shape strength as you will be securing and pulling the hair wefts around the bow shape. 

When I was happy with the shape of my bow I then used hair wefts that were mid length as this was all that was available. Placing the top of the weft in the middle of the bow and then securing it in place using a grip. I spent around 5 minutes wrapping the hair around the bow. As I was going along I really back combed the inner layer and smoothed the outer layer this is because there was not much hair available and I needed to ensure that the card was completely covered and out of site. The only way to do this was to really back home the hair very well. 

At first I spent time trying to get it as smooth as possible however this was very difficult because the hair was very short in some areas. I soon realised I would be able to cover this when I attached it to my models hair and disguised the weave using real hair. With more materials I would be able to make a really neat bow with a smooth finish. This would be essential if my model had short hair and this was going to be used as a attachment.

When I was finished making the bow I started attaching it to the hair first by gripping it onto the hair. I did this behind a high pony tail I placed on top of the hair so that I could use the hair from the pony tail to disguise the bow. If I had more time I would have liked to have incorporated an entire hair style however for the time I had remaining I decided to do a quick casual bow on the top of the head. 

After gripping I used the same method I used to cover the card board by back combing the hair from the pony tail and wrapping it around the bow making sure to smooth the outer layer.  Around the back I gripping the hair on some areas to the bow and disguised it with more hair for me it was really important to not have any of the grips on show. 

i-D Magazine

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I-D Magazine is one of my favourite magazines out there currently. For me they are a really great sours for fashion and beauty. I have seen some of the most creative and inspirational front covers and article photography from them. They are constantly pushing it when it comes to hair make up and styling and so for a me they push me towards wanting to be more creative.

You may or may not have noticed that for each front cover whoever is modelling will feature a wink as this is representative of there iconic logo. If not winking then one eye will be covered. This is a unique and quirky feel to magazine, I look forward to the different tactics they use in each issue cover to cover or create the wink effect. 

I-D magazine is a British magazine and was founded in 1980 by the former art director of Vogue Terry Jones. 

As a social message I-D magazine represents street culture, fashion, photography and beauty. They are a go to fashion fix for catwalk trends filtered down onto the streets with inspirational ways to wear whats hot! The photography in the magazine is really real and honest. As well as the articles which are down to earth and true. Reading them is like having a normal concentration there is no exaggeration or dramatic feel in comparison with some magazines. I really like this as for me this is more personal to read.

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Bibliography 

1.Braverevolution.com, (2015). I-D magazine covers? | brave. [online] Available at: http://braverevolution.com/i-d-magazine-covers/ [Accessed 9 Mar. 2015].

2.Models.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://models.com/oftheminute/archives/images/cover2bx.jpg [Accessed 9 Mar. 2015].

3.MODELS.com, (2015). I-D Pre-Fall 2012 Covers (i-D Magazine). [online] Available at: http://models.com/work/i-d-magazine-i-d-pre-fall-2012-covers [Accessed 9 Mar. 2015].

4.The Fashion Bomb Blog : Celebrity Fashion, Fashion News, What To Wear, Runway Show Reviews, (2012). Snapshot: Twigs by Matthew Stone for i-D Magazine #320. [online] Available at: http://fashionbombdaily.com/2012/08/08/snapshot-twigs-by-matthew-stone-for-i-d-magazine-320/ [Accessed 9 Mar. 2015].

Inspirational Magazine Covers

Love magazine first issue 2009.1

When asked to think about some of the most influential magazine covers. The love magazine cover featuring Beth Ditto in the year 2009 springs to mind immediately. I remember the impact it had on me and my friends as young girls. I also remember the discussions that circulated around the nature of the cover. Me personally I remember the cover because It shocked and excited me and I thought it was a great step in the right direction for the fashion and beauty industry. 

For me this magazine cover is very influential for young men and women for a number of reasons. Firstly when we think of nude we automatically think of a 'perfect' model figure with a tiny waste. Plus size models causes much controversy because of peoples ideals of 'beauty' I personally feel hiding away plus size women is what creates the ideals in peoples heads and so showing off the curves of a shapely women should be done more often so that it becomes a more realistic norm in peoples heads, this is what really makes the cover influential. 

Magazine covers like this give other big girls a platform to feel confidence from. And help to change the views some may have against women this size. 

Vogue July 1967.2

My second inspirational cover is the Vogue 1967 issue featuring the iconic model Twiggy 18 months after she was discovered. This was an iconic cover of the 60s and was showed to me by my grandmother. 

The cover was shot by well known Vogue Photographer Avedon. 

For me this cover is inspirational and Iconic for a number of reasons. Anyone who is a twiggy fan will recognise her signature eye make up in the style similar to ballet make up. However for me the make is very inspiring for its time because of its technical level. The right eye brow has either been blocked out or edited out. In my opinion I think the brows have been blocked out because of the way the flower is positioned it may have been hard to remove the eye brow through editing after the flower had been painted on. This is something that would be much easier to do now. 

This is a very unusual fashion for the 60s and is a very modern way of styling make up. The eye brow has been replaced with a flower matching the clothes covering the whole eye area. This is another thing who I feel is unique and modern for the covers time. Its a very playful make up look which I think is really inspiring in comparison with other make up looks of the 60s. 

I also love the slicked back hair that really makes the focus all about Twiggys Iconic look which dominates the front cover. 

I find it really hard to choose the most inspirational magazine cover when it involves Twiggy as I find most of her photography very inspiring. She really represented modernity in her prime. 

Below is another of my favourite and most inspirational magazine Vogue covers and yes it involves Twiggy again!

Vogue 1974.3

This is another of Twiggys covers for Vogue photographed by Barry Lategan in 1974. In this cover Twiggy is photographed as Vogues 'Cinderella'. When I look at this it really gives me a feel and excitement for the make up fashions that was about to come in the 80s. In this way the cover is really modern. The make up is bold and bright and very theatrical. One of my favourite interpretations of 'Cinderella'.!!

Bibliography

1.Blendbureaux.com, (2015). Beth Ditto Got Married | BlendBureaux. [online] Available at: http://www.blendbureaux.com/beth-ditto-got-married/ [Accessed 9 Mar. 2015].

2.Onthisdayinfashion.com, (2015). Twiggy on the Cover of July 1967 Vogue | On This Day In Fashion. [online] Available at: http://onthisdayinfashion.com/?p=2907 [Accessed 9 Mar. 2015].

3.Vogue UK, (2015). Magazine Issue. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/magazine/archive/issue/1974/December [Accessed 9 Mar. 2015].

Testing make up for SS15 90s inspired shoot

Today I practised two very similar looks insight for my upcoming shoot. I practised two minimalistic make up looks I designed influenced by the make up of SS15. I have created looks that have an element of key iconic nineties aspects. Such as 90s minimalist bases, soft brown and pastel colours. I have used application techniques such as using my ring finger to apply make up to help achieve a natural finish on the make up. Rather then lining the lips on the make up in a true 90s fashion I have decided to leave out the lining in order to make the look more suitable to the clean and simple looks that I have seen across SS15. For many of the looks in SS15 the lips are kept natural to very minimal colour. 

The first look I created was inspired by Tata Naka SS15 campaign. The team applied a brown tone to the lips and eye balanced with a clean skin and minimal foundation.To create the brown they used Mac - Ground Work. Here I have adapted the look slightly.

This look inspired me because its very earthy and natural which gives it a really fresh 90s feel as well as being light and clean perfect for SS15. 
I would like to create something similar to this for my final piece. 

This look compliments the bantu knot hair style really well. It has an edgy yet subtle feel. The skin is really clean and flawless which is very representative of both 90s and SS15. 

I have contoured ever so slightly to five some definition to the cheeks and enhance the natural features. I have also used a minimal amount of highlighter on the cheeks, cupids bow and centre of the nose. To highlight the skin I used TOPSHOP creamy illuminater. 

The second look that I tested for the shoot was a take on 90s pretty pastel colours. I used a really gorgeous silvery purple eye shadow from Mac. I brushed it along the eyes this really brightened them but was also very subtle. This look is also inspired by the looks from catwalks such as Derek lam who used frosty eye shades on the models for the SS15 campaign. 
For the lips I used a similar pastel shade just to give them some gentle colour.  
I used a heavy coverage base with a little mixing medium to loosen up the texture. 





After testing both the looks I have decided to go for the first one. Inspired by Tata Naka SS15. I feel this look is best suited to the hair I have designed incorporating Bantu Knots. This look has a much more earthy and edgy feel which is the look I would like to go for. Especially as I have now decided to create a front cover for POP magazine. I feel this is a suitable magazine for the look I'm creating because it is funky and grungy. This look wouldn't be suited to magazines such as Marie Claire or Glamour Magazine because I'm going for a more masculine feel for the shoot. 

Pop Magazine

Pop magazine is a relatively new magazine in comparison with other leading magazines. The idea was conceived in the late 90s and was first published in the year 2000 by co founders Katie Grand and Ashley heath and Katie Grand. Although in 2008 Grand left the magazine to conceive rival Love magazine alongside POP's creative directors Stuart Spalding and Lee Swillingham.7 The magazine is published just twice yearly. 

Pop is a 'bold and brave' fashion magazine.1 They describe it very artistically on there website that the magazine is for both 'chic women and men who understand that fashion is a wonderful prism though which so much of contemporary creativity and cultural change is refracted'.2 

Pop magazine portrays fashion as a vibrant language and I think this is really clear looking at the diversity and creativity of there front covers alone. Usually the covers are extremely artistic with a range of textures and prints. They are very graphic and vibrant with there designs through the magazine.

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Pop Magazine is currently now in an Online format. This was launched in 2009.3 http://thepop.com/magazine/ This version of the magazine is very interactive with the option to shop online, watch videos, read articles.They are really great for keeping on trend with the catwalk you'll find on the website live videos of catwalks from the likes of Armani. Being published online means they are also able to be even more artistic and graphic with there covers with some flashing images and changing colour used to attract the reader. Pop magazine also use other social mediums to reach there audience such as Twitter and Instagram. 

When it comes to the audience of pop magazine I would assume they are aiming at readers in there 20s to 30s. This is because the magazine is very edgy and modern. For the younger readers the magazine is very inspirational in fashion and beauty ideas that are out there however, the type of advertising in the magazine is more suited to the more mature well established independent women or man. With advertising of high end brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Armani. It can only be targeted at the well off working person. 

The articles for Pop magazine are very serious very high fashion and very classy. I would compare the magazine to Vogue in this way. Its far from the likes of Glamour magazine for example which shares sex stories and relationship goals. 

Britney Spears cover for Pop Magazine November 2010 issue.
 I really like the styling of this cover. The make up Artist for the
cover was the asian artist Yumi.  The cover is stylised in Japanese
fashion.This is a great example of how Graphical and creative
POP magazine like to get with there covers.5

Kate Moss cover for POP magazine Autumn 2006.
This is one of my favourite make up looks for the magazine
with a beautiful use of metallic textures and bronze to the face.6

Bibliography 

1. POP Magazine, (2015). PROFILES - POP Magazine. [online] Available at: http://thepop.com/profiles/ [Accessed 5 Mar. 2015].

2.POP Magazine, (2015). PROFILES - POP Magazine. [online] Available at: http://thepop.com/profiles/ [Accessed 5 Mar. 2015].

3.POP Magazine, (2015). PROFILES - POP Magazine. [online] Available at: http://thepop.com/profiles/ [Accessed 5 Mar. 2015].

4.POP Magazine, (2015). PROFILES - POP Magazine. [online] Available at: http://thepop.com/profiles/ [Accessed 5 Mar. 2015].

5.Design Scene - Fashion, Photography, Style & Design, (2010). Britney Spears for POP Magazine. [online] Available at: http://www.designscene.net/2010/08/britney-spears-for-pop-magazine.html [Accessed 5 Mar. 2015].

6.POP Magazine, (2015). PROFILES - POP Magazine. [online] Available at: http://thepop.com/profiles/ [Accessed 5 Mar. 2015].

7. Fitzsimmons, C. (2009). Dasha Zhukova named editor-in-chief of Pop magazine. [online] the Guardian. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/media/2009/feb/27/dasha-zhukova-editor-in-chief-of-pop [Accessed 5 Mar. 2015].

Shoot Day - SS15 90s inspired look

So today was shoot day and Im happy to say everything went really well and Im really pleased with the looks that we shot! My model was fantastic she looked perfect and comfortable in the look that I had created. She was a very strong model and I will definitely be working with her again!

Here are some photos from todays shoot, It was really hard to pick just a few because out of the massive 350 shots I love almost every one. I have put the pictures on here that have not been photo shopped so that you can see the raw image of the hair and make up. Because of this the lighting in some of the photos is not so perfect. 

As you can see I have decided to go for the look with the brown tone out of the two looks that I tested in the previous post. I felt that this look was more iconic to the 90s period and when I saw my model I new straight away she would suit the more deeper look. 

So heres how the day went.....

I arrived at the make up studio a little earlier then the 10 the arranged plan so that I could set up and make sure that there was a space for me to create the look. I had timed myself and hour and a half for make up. And this worked out perfectly. My model arrived at 10 she was really great and easy to get along with. I bought fruit and drink for the shoot to keep us all on form! 

The Hair

To start the look I begun with the hair I faced a bit of a challenge because the hair was so short and in different lengths. This wasn't easy to work with however I think this really helped to achieve the 90s grunge feel I wanted. 
Because of the lengths it meant that the bantu knots had a twisty scruffy look. I really liked this because it was raw and edgy and matched the deep make up. I had to use really tiny rubber bands which I bought along with me incase I had this problem. I then twisted the hair into nots and tucked in the ends. I have looked at many bantu knots some which leave clips in, some which leave hair bands in and some that naturally tuck in. 
Personally I didn't actually want to have anything showing such as clips or hair bands so I tried my best to conceal the bands I used especially because they were black. In case the hair was too short I also took along some extensions. However I felt that they were not needed I stepped away from trying to create hair that looked immaculate and more something that had that just had a night out feel, something really relaxed and natural as this is reminiscent to 90s culture. 

There were many different lengths to the hair so I used a little Vita point leave in conditioner and a minimal amount of water spray to help me grasp the hair as well as possible. I did this to get some control over fly aways. 

The hair has really got a SS15 feel to it this look can be seen on many of the catwalks I discussed in my previous post such as Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs. The fact that I casted a model with short hair at the sides helped me to give the look a much more modern feel. Making it even more well suited to SS15. 

The Make up

The make up was my next step after the hair. I was aiming at creating a really earthy, raw and extremely clean make up. I started my cleansing and moisturising my model. First adjusting her chair to the right height as it had been a lot lower for the hair styling. 
I moisturised really well to help me achieve a nice glow to the skin. To add to this I also used Autograph Illuminating Primer to further brighten then skin before applying a base. This is a really great primer its an instantly radiating primer and makes such a lot of difference! 

Before 

For the foundation I used Mac Studio Fix fluid foundation in NC15. I mixed this with a little NC14 to lighten it up just a touch, I did not want to add any tan to the skin I wanted a perfect and natural finish. I applied this using a clean foundation brush to the T zone areas and then using a blending brush to buff into the skin. This for me was a great way of creating a natural finish rather then using a foundation brush I feel this creates a more heavier coverage look. Because this was a photo shoot and would be under the light I made sure to cover the neck and ears so they didn't stand out on camera! Because of the time of year my model had quite a bit of redness on the cheeks. I was able to cover this using the foundation and stippling on a little more to act as a concealer. I made this decision to help this look to remain natural rather then using a heavier concealer to cover. 

I did use a pink toned concealer from MAC just to conceal some of the dark circles underneath the eye area. These were minimal and did not need to much concealer. However the application really made a big difference in brightening up the make up. 

When I was finished I powdered gently only in some areas just so that I could keep the healthy glow to the make up. 

My Second step was to really lightly contour the skin. As I mentioned in my previous post I really just wanted to accentuate the natural features rather then create a really exaggerated contour. This is one of the things that is key to SS15 is a really light and clean make up. I felt  that if I was to create a heavy contour this would give the look a lot less relation to SS15 beauty. To contour I used Diego Dalla Palma Bronzer. I chose to use this because it gives a really nice warm glow to the contour. Also the shade of brown was a very similar tone to the brown I had used on the eyes and lips. The colour I used was Satin Cocoa. 

After Bronzing I highlighted the skin using Topshop Glow Highlighter the one I have is not currently on sale anymore however there is a very similar alternative always on sale that is very popular. Its a really creamy highlighter and gives a wonderful bright glow that seems to really catch the light. I applied the highlighter using my ring finger for greater control. I applied it to the nose, the apples of the cheek in a C shape and also to the cupids bow and below the bottom lip. Im really pleased with the effects of this product on camera. It really shows up and gives a beautiful natural glow. Using this type of creamy concealer also helped me to bring out that moisturised and healthy plump feel to the skin which I wanted as it contributes to the natural feel of the make up. This product really a key point to the look. 

The colour I used for the lips and eyes was the same as was created by me as practised in my testing. I used a brown shade from my La Maquillage foundation pallet. I then lightened the colour a little with a lighter shade adding moisturiser to loosen the product. I got the consistency to a kind of gel liner but a little looser warming it on the back of my hand. I applied it to they eyes using my ring finger blending it in. During the shoot I touched it up a few times as I was worried it may crease. Luckily it seemed to really cling to the skin well I think this is because I refrained from making the product too greasy.  

I then applied the same colour to the lips. I decided I did not want to line the lips. When I was testing and looking at 90s make up something that is iconic for the 90s brown lip look is to line them and then fill them in with a little lighter colour. I decided that If I was to go for this look it would not have enough of a SS15 feel. Looking at the SS15 lips the colours were subtle and never heavy for this reason I decided to fill in the natural lip shape almost like a lip stain. This was much more suitable for a SS15 look still keeping a natural, earthy and raw feel. I was really pleased that I stuck to this decision as the look was much more relevant to now. 

For this look I also wanted the eye brows to remain very subtle. I groomed them and filled them in only to perfect the shape slightly and fill in any gaps. To do this I used a angled brush and Ben Nye Eye Shadow in a combination of grey and brow to create a natural tone. I extended them ever so slightly this was just to get some balance and symmetry to the make up. I also used a clear eye brow gel to set them in place. 

The Lashes I actually left alone, This is because my model turned up with false lashes. I was a little apprehensive at first because I really wanted this to be a natural look. Most of the SS15 make up looks have little to none mascara. Luckily the lashes were not too prominent and false looking I think they compliment the make up nicely and look like mascara in most of the shots. Because they were false no product was allowed to be put on them. Luckily I did not intend to add anything to the make up.