1920s Hair Research

As I have decided to create a 1920s period hair and make up for my final major project. I feel it important that I remind myself in depth of the trends in hair that where used at the time to help me with styling. decided to remind myself of 1920s hair styling techniques and styles. Images are a selection from the highly resourceful book 'Hairstyles Ancient to Present by Charlotte Fiell. 

The Roaring twenties was a time for Men and Women to enjoy a new found political freedom. This contributed to changes in fashion as well as hair and make up styling. In the 1920s various extreme new hair styling became wide spread. 

This included styles and techniques such as:

• The Short Bob 
•  Perms 
• Finger Waves 
• Front Fringes 
• Marcel Waving

Changes in society played an important factor in the confidence in Women. Such as their new found ability to work and earn money. "The number of women working in the America during the 1920s rose by a staggering 51%".2

Inevitably more income gave women more to spend on there looks. 

I feel that the short and severe bob cut was part of a cultural movement for women and was a way of showing strength against gender stereotypes. It is said that many hairdressers resisted the cut but soon gave in as it helped to show they had much skill and was not an easy cut to create.3 

With reference to Period hair styling lectures in year one, the bob cut mirrored the changes in Fashion styling with the new figureless dress styles and boyish more active suitable clothing becoming the main styles for women.

There was a number of different types of bobs. This range of styles included :

            

• The Shingle Bob - Hair is thinned at the back to the nape.

• The Orchid Bob - Short bob with curled ends sitting on cheek

• The Coconut Bob - A very shot bob with straight fringe

• The Moana Bob  

• The Charleston Bob - Softer and Longer bob

• The Eton Bob - The most boyish of the bob's hair finishing above ear level

• Marvel/ Finger Waved Bob 

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Marcel Waving became a popular technique for creating those iconic finger waves. Marcel Grateau developed his waving tool during the 1880s and these were relied upon in the twenties for creating waves.4

Karl Nessler also introduced the first permeant waving machine in 1909. This machine really took off in time for the roaring twenties. With reference to Period Hair styling in year one this machine required hairdressers to soak the hair in a alkaline solution before winding the hair around electrically heated brass rollers. 5

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With reference to Hairstyles Ancient to Present written by Charlotte Fiell, during the twenties the hairdressing profession also for the first time became a less male dominated position as more and more women entered the role.

Of Course with more emphasis on hair styling. The twenties saw an increase in vital hair products available. With reference to Period Hair styling there was far more use of products such as Shampoo. As well as popular hair grooming products such as this poster for Brilliantine.6

1920s rollers.7

1920s Bob clips and Wavers.8

Overall the 1920s was really a time for change and hair styling trends helped to show a new found confidence in women. The introduction of the silent movies had an enormous effect on women's style ideas. Stars of the screen such as Clara Bow, Anna May Wong, Claudette Colbert and Josephine Baker influenced women world wide on hair and make up. Louis Brooks was also a strong influence in the later years of the twenties. She wore the famous bob cut with no waves and this also became a popular way to sport the bob.6 

Anna May Wong. First famous Asian actress. Often casted as the Villain. 

Claudette Colbert 1903-1996

Clara Bow 1906-1965 Famous for the iconic 'bow' lip look.

Hair Accessories 

Hats were a key part of the 1920s look. With reference to contextual studies designers such as Molyneax and Atelier were well known  for offering a wide selection of hats to be paired with clothing.

During the 1920s their were a number of key accessories iconic to the era. These included some of the following:

 

The Cloche Hat - This hat was an iconic piece from the twenties. And helped to form the stereotypical look for women. The Cloche hat was classy and seductive. There was a wide variety of different styles however they all resembled a similar shape which contoured over the head down the nape at the back and at the front sitting close to the eyes almost covering them. 

 

The Bandeau - Bandeaus where also popular particularly for special occasions. I have looked into this in particular as I feel Its something I would like to design for my final piece. Bandeaus were usually a strip of fabric worn around the forehead. The effect was similar to the cloche in that it covered the forehead and finished close to the eyes.

The Brow band - This was a similar accessories to the bandeau only it was usually much thinner. Ive noticed that this was worn a lot for special occasions and have seen some very elaborate designs usually with decorated at the side of the head with feathers or an embellished area.