Thursday 29 January 2015

Contrasting Colours!

In todays workshop we had fun creating make up looks using contrasting colours. We used normal eye shadows but enhanced them by applying clown white to brighten and strengthen the shadows! 


To begin I ensured all health and safety measures were in order such as clean brushes, sanitised hands, gowning my model and adjusting her seat to a suitable height that was comfortable for myself. 

For this look I started with the eyes and then concentrated on the base last. Using my ring finger I applied clown white after warming it slightly on the bak of my hand. I applied the clown white up to the crease and no higher. I did go high on some areas however I used a cotton bud to clean this up before going on with the eye shadow. When I was finished I used a clean brush to blend the clown white upwards and create a nice shape. I used the same brush to apply the eye shadow as it really helped the eye shadow to stick. I patted on the shadow and blended upwards using purple up to the crease line. Making sure each time to tap my brush on my work station to avoid eye shadow droppings onto my models face. 
Once I had applied the purple I worked on creating a crease line for this I used a light grey mixed with beige to warm up the grey and create a more natural tone. Using a blended brush I worked this into the crease line. At this point I lost some of the strength of the purple so I decided to go back in with the purple slightly to bring back the colour onto the eye lids below the crease line. 

For my contrasting colour I decided yellow would be a great way to bring out the purple. Using the same method to strengthen the colour I applied clown white to the water line and under eye. For this I used a clean angle brush. To apply I found it easiest to lay it flat onto the eye and press it gently onto the eye. I planned to take the colour right out to the corner and inner corner so I made sure to apply the clown white across the entire line. This was not a perfectly neat line so I used a cotton bud under eye to create a clean shape. This is a reason why its important to do the base after the eyes to avoid creating a grey area. 


For the base I used two types of foundations. Before doing so I prepped the skin using cleanser and moisturised. I find that its important to always cleans and moisturise before applying foundation onto the skin it provides a nice base to work on and brings a healthy glow to the look which can always be toned down with powder. 
The aim for the base was to create a foundation that looked a very light and healthy coverage whilst using a heavy full coverage foundation and Mac Face and Body.
I created a foundation using my La Maquillage pallet, I applied using a clean brush to the centre of the face and then blended outwards using a blended brush. This helped create the coverage I needed. To bring the dewiness back into the skin I used Mac Face and Body to go over the top and used the tip of my brush to get a nice smooth application. After I had completed this there were some areas that still needed to be concealed such as dark circles to over come this I mixed a warm and peachy tone concealer to remove the dark circles. 
When I was happy with my base and had properly concealed I powdered the foundation using translucent powder. 


The eye brows I groomed using a brush and then applied Mac Eye brow pencil to darken only slightly and give them some shape. After standing back and looking there were some gaps in the brows so to over come this I applied Ben Nye Brown Eyeshadow to fill in where needed to be on the brows. When I was happy with this I set them using eye brow gel. 

Now it was time to move on to the Highlight and contour which I feel really completed the look and bought it together. Adding the highlight and contour gave the look more of a catwalk and editorial style. 
To highlight I used Mac Mineralise Skin Finish in Soft and Gentle. To apply I used a fan brush and highlighted all the areas the sun would hit the skin. This gave a really nice and reflective bronzy highlight. I find using a fan brush gives me more control over where I want the highlight to hit the face. 

To contour I used my Ben Nye Eyeshadows mixing some warm tone browns with a grey undertone to add depth to the make up. I used a minimal amount by wiping the excess off on the back of my hand. I gently buffed a little into the cheek to create a contour on the cheek line only to keep the look as fresh as possible. 

For the lips I picked a bright pink to add some more contrast into the finished look. lifting the colours I had to choose from up to my models face to see what would work best. I picked a hot pink lipstick I had that was purchased at the Body Shop. 


Lastly to bring back back some dewiness to the skin I warmed some vaseline on my fingers and pressed it onto the highlighted areas of the cheek these were the nose, brow bone and highest point of the cheek. I was really happy with the overall finish. This is a clean look and I think its not obvious that there actually is a full coverage foundation underneath the Face and Body. 

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