90s Minimalist Make up - For upcoming shoot

I have looked at a number of trends for SS15 to help me finalise my ideas in designing the make up for a magazine. I have already decided to go with the increasingly popular Bantu knots for the hair however I have come up with a route I would like to take with the make up. Im going to spend a bit more time finalising why I have chosen what I have and why its going to compliment the hair. I know that I would definitely like to keep the make up as clean as possible because one thing I can immediately say about the make up for SS15 is that its very clean and fresh with most looks having one or two key elements about them. This is also key to the hair I am creating as I'm sticking to the 90s theme of SS15 I know already I want to create a 90s minimalist make up that is true to the style of the era!

To help me develop and decide on my make up design I have created a mood board so I can share my thought process!

Some of the looks in this collage that have inspired me come from SS15 shows such as Derek Lam SS15, Matthew Williamson SS15, 

I have spent so many hours analysing the make up for SS15 in all areas I feel like an expert I love everything so I found it really hard to be strict with myself and narrow it down to the look I am trying to perceive. Im portraying a 90s babe look with the hair so I really need to match this with the make up. When I think back to my child hood 90s make up including the art world was all about minimalism. Classic 90s make up is minimalistic and that is a key influence for SS15 there was so much choice to be influenced by because so much of SS15 make up is really clean fresh and simple. 

I have decided I am going to be creating a really clean skin with barley there foundation. My look is going to be all about the raw beauty of a women. The skin will be so fresh and moisturised. If I was going to be creating this for a group of models on a catwalk I would be thinking about stripping back there make up and only enhancing there best features. For this reason I would like to do a really subtle contour. My model has beautiful cheek bones I am going to enhance them slightly and keep the skin really fresh and subtly I think this is Iconic to the look of the 90s. For me the 90s is all about being who you are.

One of my biggest inspirations behind the look I will be creating is the make up from the Tata Naka SS15 campaign. I think this look is a really subtle appropriate look for a iconic 90s minimalist lady. This subtle brown tone is whats key to the era. Its used on the eyes and lips to give a minimal amount of depth and is used with a clean illuminated skin. 

In my next post I will be testing out some make up inspired by my mood boards. 

Bibliography 

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/22178/1/yadim-charts-this-seasons-iconic-make-up-looks [Accessed 20 Feb 2015]

Assets-prod.harpersbazaar.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://assets-prod.harpersbazaar.co.uk/beauty/shows-and-trends/Derek-Lam-bks-I-RS15-0314.jpg [Accessed 25 Feb. 2015].

Strandednyc.com, (2014). #StrandedBackstage | Wes Gordon SS15 The Return Of 90’s Minimalism | Stranded NYC. [online] Available at: http://www.strandednyc.com/wes-gordon-bumble-and-bumble-maybelline-essie/ [Accessed 25 Feb. 2015].

The 90s Buns! - Hair for upcoming shoot!

I have been asked to design hair and make up to represent SS15 in an upcoming shoot. The shoot will be based on a magazine cover depending on the hair and make up I design and what magazine its best suited too. 

Ive spent a lot of time looking into the different hair trends for SS15 and what seems to be popping up the most off the catwalk. Ive also looked back at some of my previous research on London and New york fashion shows for SS15 in previous blog posts. 

I have decided that Im really loving the punk cross 90s themes that keep appearing on catwalks. For me it really stands out and hits home with me growing up in the 90s. 

Hair Inspiration

Christopher Shannon SS15.1, Vivienne Westwood SS152, Marc by Marc Jacobs SS15.3

 When I see knots like these in the hair I think of the 90s however this hair style originates from Africa and is a style that has been worn traditionally for hundreds of years. Its a great style as it can be worn by any texture hair and length. Even my own! Also clearly any gender can rock this style
Recently Bantu knots have been seen on the catwalks for SS15 from the likes of campaigns such as Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Christopher Shannon SS15, just to name a few!
One of the reasons I think this is such a popular trend is because we have gone 90s mad! (Which I think is a fantastic thing). Looking back at the 90s I remember the likes of Gwen Stefani, Lauryn Hill, Mel B and Janet Jackson all rocking the boyish punky hairstyle. 

Bantu Knots have also filtered there way through to editorial campaigns and have been worn by models such as Cara Delevingne for a recent DKNY campaign. Also it would be hard not to mention Rhianna's ID magazine photographs were she rocked a dark lip clean highlighted skin and some edgy bantu knots. Other celebs who seem to be loving the style include Rita Ora, Miley Cyrus and Kelly Osbourne. 

Cara DKNY.4, Rita Ora.5, Bjork.6, Miley Cyrus.7, Rhianna.8, Marc Jacobs.9

When thinking about what Magazine to design the make up for, I feel with such a edgy style it seems only right to think about magazines such as ID, Paper, Pop in comparison to magazines such as Glamour or Marie Claire! 

I also feel the make up needs to follow the hair thats why when I realised I wanted to do such as style I felt it important to develop my ideas for the hair first and then think about what make up would compliment the hair according to whats popular for SS15. The great thing about this hair style is the make up can be really versatile and still compliment the make up. I mean a clean face would look great with the style as we have seen but so would a heavy smokey eye or a really dark lip! This means I have a lot to think about. 

@Jkissamakeup 

This is one of my favourite takes on the bantu knots done by one of my favourite bloggers, +JkissaMakeup 

Asos Magazine March 2015 Issue

Bibliography

1.-->, D. and McClintock, R. (2014). Christopher Shannon SS15. [online] Dazed. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/20304/1/christopher-shannon-ss15 [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

3.Glamourmagazine.co.uk, (2015). Beauty trends from the SS15 Catwalks. [online] Available at: http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/beauty/hair-trends/2014/09/beauty-hair-trends-ss15-catwalk-hairstyle-ideas/viewgallery/1235329 [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

2.Vivienne Westwood, (2015). Red Label SS15. [online] Available at: http://www.viviennewestwood.com/collections/red-label/spring-summer [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

4.Anon, (2015). [online] Available at: http://openingceremony.tumblr.com/post/42275887686/dkny-exclusively-for-opening-ceremony-is-now [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

5.Fashionista.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://fashionista.com/2014/09/multiple-topknot-trend [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

6.Glamourmagazine.co.uk, (2014). RiRi puts blue lippy & ‘Crazy Eyes’ Bantu knots to the test. [online] Available at: http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/news/beauty/2014/05/02/rihanna-blue-lipstick-and-hair-twists-at-the-iheartradio-awards [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

4.I.huffpost.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://i.huffpost.com/gen/1527380/thumbs/o-MILEY-CYRUS-570.jpg [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

5. i-D, (2015). rihanna rocks the cover of i-D's music issue! | read | i-D. [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/rihanna-rocks-the-cover-of-i-ds-music-issue [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

6. Papermag.com, (2015). PAPERMAG: Last Night at NYFW, White Girls Discovered Bantu Knots. [online] Available at: http://www.papermag.com/2014/09/last_night_at_nyfw_white_girls.php [Accessed 18 Feb. 2015].

Contrasting Colours

Bleach brow evaluation in previous blog post!

Todays workshop was really fun and creative. We worked on creating looks that were all about contrasting bold colours with a 80s kind of influence! 

To begin the look of course I went over all health and safety measures such as gowning my model, cleansing my hands and adjusting her chair to the correct height for my back. As you can see my model has a front fringe so I also clipped this back out of the way.

Despite my model having no make up on I cleansed and moisturised to prep the skin and achieve a nice base to work from. 

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For the base I used my La Maquillage Palette which is a full coverage foundation. This was my choice because I wanted to cover the redness and blemishes on the face. Even though I was using a full coverage foundation I was still able to achieve a light and clean base. To do this I applied the foundation to the centre areas of the face and then blended outwards using a clean blending brush. Were there was still areas that needed covering I went back in with more foundation to conceal. I also used a pink toned concealer from Mac to cover the dark circles under my models eye. I used a really minimal amount because there was not much darkness. Checking back in the mirror this was a really great way to achieve a light clean base using a full coverage foundation. The blending brush really helped me in this case. 

Even though I was going to be using a lot of colour on most areas of the face I still contoured and highlighted. This helps to make the look really three dimensional. To create the contour I used my La Maquillage pallet again to create a darker colour. I contoured the skin using a clean brush checking in the mirror for symmetry on both sides of the face. Where the contour was too strong or there was a lack of symmetry I used my foundation brush with product still on it to even out and soften the edges of the contour. This is a really nice and easy way to correct contour mistakes. 

To highlight I used Clown White which I purchased from Screen Face the one I use is Ben Nye. This is a key product for this look and is essential for giving the colours the depth and strength. 

Instead of powdering over the entire face I really lightly dusted over the face using a fan brush making sure to only apply a fine layer. This is because I wanted to keep that healthy and glowing feel to the make up. 

 The next step for the look was to start creating the contrasting colours! I began by warming up the clown white on the back of my hand ready to use as a base for the shadows. Using a clean brush a applied this as a thin layer. This is to prevent from too much product buildup which can ruin the entire look. I have found that only a little is needed to strengthen a colour.  When applying the clown white I winged it out slightly. When I was finished I used another clean brush to blend any harsh lines and remove the excess. 
Starting at the inner corner I applied a baby blue which is a very soft colour on its own but really bright and effective on top of the clown white! I then applied my second colour which was an orange and winged the colour out slightly for a more dramatic and 80s effect. The brush technique for merging the colours was important. I used two different colours on the flats of each side of the brush and patted the colours on blending as I merged them. At this point I was careful not to put the two different colours on top of each other to much and tried to keep a clear definition between the two colours. Looking back at the photos I think I could have improved on this as there is a clear area of combined colours in particular on the left eye. This is definitely something I would like to improve for next time. 

I took the purple on top of the clown white from the inner corners and right round the crease of the eye. This also helped to bring some balance into the make up look. 
To soften all the edges of the make up I used a beige eye shadow this helps to blend each colour in to a natural tone and give the make up a lot more balance and subtlety in the right areas.  
For even more contrast to look as this was the theme I applied yellow ontop of clown white to the entire bottom lash line taking it right into the corners and back out to the end of the eye. 
To finish the eyes I applied mascara to the top and bottom lashes.

For the blush I also used clown white to intensify the colour on the cheeks. I applied a minimal amount of clown white to the cheeks using a clean brush I then patted on a orangey tone blusher to the top of the cheek bone blending it into the hair line and downwards slightly. Merging into the orange tone blusher I added a pink toned blusher. I was not completely happy with the outcome of this because I feel I haven't softened the edges of the blusher well enough the colour just stops and needs a little more blending where it ends. If I had more time I would have used translucent powder on the edges of the blush to really blend them out so the make up flows more with no abrupt finishes.

 To complete the look I used black eye liner to create lines and give the look structure. I decided these lines randomly starting with the winged eye liner and following on to were I think would best balance out each line. This came naturally as I was aiming to compliment each line by picturing in my head what would look best before going ahead with it.

Bleaching Brow effects - Using Spirit Gum

Recently a recurring make up look on the catwalks has been bleached brows or brows made to look blonde. This is a striking make up look but is something that has really grown on me and I now actually really love. 

Lately I have been incorporating bleached brows into make up looks without bleaching the brow but using an alternative method using spirit gum and camouflage products to help me achieve the appearance of blonde brows on my models. 

I have found that it can turn a really simple make up look into something shocking and edgy, equally it can bring out a really vibrant and detailed eye make up and help give focus onto the make up itself. Below I have tried out the bleach brow effects with a bold and bright artistic make up as well as with a look more subtle. 

The first look I created in my workshop with lecturer Branka so had more time to go through the stages in a timely manner the second look I created on a location shoot in hectic conditions, I was surprised that this worked well despite the conditions and is actually a really easy and simple look to create. 

Photo shoot bleached brow effects- Hair and Make up by me 

The steps to creating bleached eye brows using Spirit gum 

To begin with bleaching the brows I first cleansed, toned and moisturised my models skin removing any make up left on the brows. This was an important step as any make up on the brows will make them harder to lighten using concealers, also the make up will become mixed in with the spirit gum on application and this will also turn a strange colour. 

There are also several health and safety steps to ensure before beginning the bleach brows, gowning and moving my model to the correct height in her chair was first and for most but also because of using spirit gum a strong product near the eye its important to protect the models eye. To do this I gave her a cotton pad and placed it over her eye letting my model rest the cotton pad in place. 

To apply the spirit gum I used a disposable mascara wand and brushed it back and forth in the wrong direction to coat the hairs and finished by brushing the hairs back into place. I used minimal product to prevent from the spirit gum dripping down onto my model also because you only want to coat the hairs and not leave spirit gum on the skin. If this does happen this can be removed using a cotton bud and spirit gum remover/MME. I found it was a good idea to complete this step at the beginning stages of the make up before applying any foundation or other products. This is because it allows the spirit gum good drying time which it needs before applying the concealer. However when I was on set and bleaching the brows It was my second make up look and I did not have a lot of time at all. Because of this the brows had a tacky texture to help dry the brows and get rid of the sticky powder I used a powder puff to apply an extra layer of powder. This allowed me to go ahead and apply the concealer. 

Once my spirit gum was dry and had been powdered and any excess was cleaned of the skin using MME it was now time to think about creating the right concealer with a blonde colour and tone. 

To create the blonde brows I used Kryolan Derma Colour in D7 and D2 this mix helps to create a yellow tone that was perfect for blonde. I mixed the colours on the back of my hand and used a concealer brush to coat each hair with concealer really being careful to cover each hair one by one. I then powdered over the brows and to be extra careful I powdered over the brows and went back in with the concealer and filled in any dark areas that needed more cover. To tidy up any excess around the brows I used a cotton bud. Finally to complete the brow I used a light natural light beige to help set the brow and bring in a light natural finish.